Touch Cafe Kiev

Get in Touch

Whether it has to do with our politicians up in arms over the latest scandal or the price for a decent taxi fare from the national airport, this city is in a constant state of flux. No less significant is the ever-changing restaurant/club scene, where every few months somebody is closing their doors to remont, refurnish and rebrand. One of the latest modifications Kyiv has been witness to is the switch from what was once a decadent night club into a new Eastern eatery.

While there may be a few who will mourn the loss of their old haunt, Decadence, there are all sorts of tastes and textures coming out of the new Touch Café sure to dissipate any prolonged or unpleasant grief. At least, that is what has been promised by The Ukrainian Connoisseur’s Club as we meet at the height of summer on the second floor of 16 Shota Rustavelli.

A Gallery of Colour

Taking the stairs, the dark and mysterious opens up to an intense collection of colour and character where candy apple reds, royal azures and India greens immediately hit the senses. There is little that remains of this venue’s past life. But perhaps that is for the better, as the new decor spices up the place considerably. While it is a big change, the palette is not offensive. Quite the opposite: it is refreshing, and lends itself well to the exotic-looking furniture all of which looks as though it might have distant cousins in some far off place.

As people trickle in and are offered cool refreshments to quench the hot season’s thirst, eyes dart around to see just what has changed. The answer, with the exception of the basic layout, is everything: tall chairs line a bar which stretches from almost front to back; lamps the likes of which one might find in a Sultan’s palace hang unobtrusively at various points from the ceiling; hookah pipes sit atop a sideboard with the same kind of markings henna artists might draw on the hands and feet of Indian girls about to be wed; a beaded curtain separates the main area and the WC where tiles of Eastern design hug those of earthen tones; and foreign but beautiful faces on canvas stare back at you with eyes so piercing and skin so made up you can’t help but stare back. For the decor alone, it is worth a visit. Of course, the interior of any eatery is only one of its many elements. The question that looms this evening is whether its food matches its ornamentation.

Before any gastronomic test gets passed, however, we are welcomed by the club’s president, Terry Picard. While it’s true Mr Pickard does have a gift for the gab, he quickly turns the reigns over to a certain Charl Theron, who unveils the beginning of a new partnership with TUCC: the Connoisseur’s Wine Club! The general gist is membership into the club where delicious little vintages from producers all over the world come right to your door. Having tasted and tested those few presented this evening, I have no problem admitting that we will soon be receiving our own box of specialty wines in the very near future!

The Asian Kitchen

With a room full of empty stomachs and a few light heads, our group of 25 makes its way over to the assigned seating area by the windows. The venue’s new chef, Michael Marchuk, comes out in uniform and wishes us a wonderful evening, and then the sommelier takes over and the first assigned wine of the evening is poured. It is a light and tasty Mumm Brut and leaves little time for the blood/alcohol ratio to settle (which many may find is an agreeable benefit from evenings out with TUCC!). Coupled with a delightful little spring roll made up of delicately sliced vegetables all wrapped up in fresh rice paper with a tangy drizzle of both sweet and savoury coulis, neither our glasses nor our plates remain occupied for very long.

One of the great things about Asian kitchens is its use of healthy options, and following along this trend tonight, the second dish, a Thai salad with shredded vegetables, duck and peanuts in mango sauce, hits the tables. This is a wonderful option for anyone trying to stay slim and trim during the last few days of summer. There is crunch left in the carrots, peppers and sprouts which accompany the deliciously tender duck and the sauce is so delectable there are people licking their fingers once their chop sticks have finished clicking and clacking. The oh-so-fragrant Spanish Vina Esmeralda that has been served with the salad does not last either; most likely because the two grape varieties – Moscatel and Gewurztraminer – blended to create it complement each other so well, lending itself to one of the best summer sips I have had this year.

Unexpected Encounters

With the kitchens on full steam ahead, there is no slowing down and a new glass is needed for a new white, this time a French Riesling. The taste found in this wine is sharper than that of the last, but with hints of pineapple and other such tropical fruits, it is no less appealing and balances the next dish, Japanese dumplings, rather well. There is chatter around our table as to why varenyky might have found their way onto the menu of a chef worthy of far more delicious Asian feats. It has to be said, however, the dumplings have an intense flavour about them, and dipped in soy sauce with added chilli, they are not your average perogie found on baba’s kitchen table. These have a kick. And the kick is good.

After this slight detour off the Asian path, we are treated to a slice of mouth-watering salmon that has been pampered with a smattering of teriyaki dressing. The meat found on this anadromous fish is so tender to begin with and needs little in the way of enhancing its already soft flavour. However, the teriyaki allows for another distinct taste and is a nice touch especially with the absolutely delicious garlic mash that accompanies it. The Chilean Chardonnay Reserva which is served alongside completes the package and almost as if on cue, all plates are empty and cleared.

By this time, the mood is flying high, tastebuds are happy, and there is no longer the threat that some inappropriate joke might be told. But alas, I speak too soon. As is typical entertainment at any TUCC function, it is the president’s responsibility to keep the masses entertained. Unexpectedly for his audience and unbeknownst to him, a sidekick has made her way out of the woodwork and his act doubles in hilarity…

A Red Among Whites

Having settled down, we are now sipping once again, this time on the only red of the evening – a Cabernet-Carmenere Reserva of Chile. It is a daringly dark vintage with hints of berries and vanilla and will no doubt ensure the flavours found naturally in the next course – fresh pieces of beef and chicken – now being served, come out wonderfully. The only catch? We have to do the cooking! It is no matter, however, as the grill or hot stone comes to us, and with a little rock sea salt thrown down for flavour, the pieces of chicken and beef, gently coddled in rosemary, are placed carefully down to cook.

The hot stone experience is not a new one for Kyiv. However, it is a brilliant way to liven up an evening out. Various sauces, if needed, have been laid out as well and between dipping and sipping, there is just too much! In need of a break, I throw in the towel half way through; the benefit being I now get to watch the commotion going on all around me!

Coming to the end of the evening, which has already elapsed into the fourth hour, our last little trifle comes in the form of a lemon tart. The tart itself is simple and plain and seems to be nothing more than what it is. Taking a small bite, leery of putting yet another forkful into my growing belly, all thoughts of going easy escape my mind. It tastes exactly as it looks: simple, plain and lemony delicious. Served with the sweet Takara Plum, the tart tang in the dessert is delightfully offset by this dessert wine and everything disappears together.

To be a little bit genius you have to be a little bit crazy, and if that is the case, I’m sure no one in the capital will complain that Chef Michael Marchuk has indeed been touched. The Touch Café is a welcomed new addition to Kyiv’s edible inventory. Get in touch and pay them a visit. 

The Edible Inventory

Vegetable Spring Roll

Mumm Brut

Thai Salad with Shredded Vegetables, Duck and Peanuts in Mango Sauce

Vina Esmeralda (Spain)

Japanese Dumplings with Chicken and Chilli

Riesling (France)

Teriyaki Salmon with Mashed Potatoes

Chardonnay Reserva (Chile)

Assorted Fresh Meat Grilled on Hot Stone

Cabernet-Carmenere Reserva (Chile)

Lemon Tart

Takara Plum

Touch Café (16 Shota Rustavelli)

206-4920, Open 12.00 – last guest

Written by Lana Nicole http://www.whatson-kiev.com